by James Conley

Properly so, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (“the Duomo”) is tightly tied to the identity of Florence, Italy. It’s a phenomenal and unrivaled work of religious celebration through architecture.

But the blossoming of Florence from a Roman military encampment into one of the most beautiful cities in the world was the result of the city’s deep Christian faith. The glory of that faith was made not only visible, but accessible through the art of the church. And there are more than 70 ancient churches in present-day Florence.

Just north of the River Arno, near the Vespucci bridge, in a piazza after its name, is the Basilica di San Salvatore di Ognissanti. Dating from the 13th Century, the “Church of All Saints” has undergone a variety of transformations—but always remaining a Franciscan church.

With modesty, the church has long promoted incredible art. Giotto painted his Madonna and Child with angels for the high alter, and also the glowing crucifix, for the first time depicting Christ in a naturalistic style. Botticelli—who was baptized in, attended as his parish, and was buried on the church’s grounds (near, if not next to, Simonetta Vespucci)—painted the fresco of Saint Augustine in his Study across from Ghirlandaio's Saint Jerome in his Study.

Like so many places in Florence, the Ognissanti is an unassuming jewel tucked away on an unassuming plaza, away from the bustle of the center. But it can only be discovered by those who wander.